Hello there! As a crochet designer and content strategist, I can tell you that the single most exciting "level up" moment for any new crocheter is when the "secret code" of a written pattern finally clicks.
You've mastered the chain, you've conquered the single crochet, and you're feeling confident. You find a pattern for a beautiful blanket or a cute amigurumi, you open the file, and... your heart sinks. It looks like a random jumble of letters and numbers. Ch 21, Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next ch; rep from * to end.
If that sentence makes you want to close the tab and go back to YouTube, I want you to take a deep breath. You are not bad at this. This is a hurdle every single crocheter has to clear, and I promise it's so much easier than it looks. A crochet pattern isn't gibberish; it's a language. And I'm here to be your translator.
This guide is your decoder ring. We're not just going to define terms. We're going to learn the logic of patterns, from the ground up. By the time we're done, you'll be able to look at that "secret code" and see a clear, simple set of instructions.
What Is a Crochet Pattern and How Does It Work?
At its core, a crochet pattern is just a recipe.
Think about it: a baking recipe has a list of ingredients (flour, sugar, eggs) and a set of step-by-step instructions (mix, bake at 350°F). A crochet pattern is exactly the same.
- Ingredients: Your yarn, your hook size, and any notions like buttons or stuffing.
- Instructions: The sequence of stitches and rows needed to turn that string into a finished object.
Patterns provide a universal, space-saving way to share these instructions. Instead of having to write "work one single crochet stitch into the next stitch" a hundred times, we just write "sc."
There are two main ways these instructions are presented:
Written Patterns: This is the "secret code" we talked about. It uses a standardized system of abbreviations, numbers, and symbols (like brackets and asterisks) to describe every action you need to take.
Crochet Diagrams (or Charts): This is a visual "map" of the pattern. Instead of words, it uses symbols laid out on a grid to show you which stitch to make and where to put it.
Most patterns will include one or both, and we'll cover how to read them.
Why Learning to Read Patterns Makes Crocheting Easier
I know what you're thinking: "But Patricia, I can just follow a video tutorial. Why bother with this?"
I love video tutorials! They are fantastic for learning the physical motion of a stitch. But relying only on video is like being a chef who can only cook if someone is standing next to them, guiding their hand. Learning to read a pattern is like learning to read the recipe yourself.
It unlocks freedom.
You are no longer limited to the 20-minute video-friendly projects. You can make complex lace shawls, perfectly fitted sweaters, intricate amigurumi, and heirloom-quality blankets. You can access a library of millions of designs from the last 50 years, not just what's popular on YouTube this week. It is the single skill that graduates you from a "crocheter" to a true "creator."
Common Crochet Abbreviations Every Beginner Must Know
This is the first part of the code you need to learn. Abbreviations are just shorthand to save space. Once you learn the main five or six, you can understand 90% of all beginner patterns.
Here are the absolute essentials (these are U.S. terms, which we'll discuss next):
ch
Stands for Chain. This is the foundation of almost all crochet.
st(s)
Stands for Stitch(es). You'll see this at the end of a row, as in "Row 1: ... (12 sts)."
sl st
Stands for Slip Stitch. This is a very short stitch used to join rounds or move across stitches without adding height.
sc
Stands for Single Crochet. This is one of the shortest and most common stitches, and the foundation of amigurumi.
hdc
Stands for Half Double Crochet. A medium-height stitch.
dc
Stands for Double Crochet. A taller stitch, common in blankets and clothing.
tr (or tc)
Stands for Treble (or Triple) Crochet. A very tall stitch used for lacy, open fabric.
inc
Stands for Increase. This means you'll work two or more stitches into the same stitch to make the piece wider. The pattern might say "sc inc" or "2 sc in next st."
dec
Stands for Decrease. This means you'll work two or more stitches together to make the piece narrower. The pattern might say "sc dec" or "sc2tog" (single crochet 2 together).
See? It's not so bad. It's just a simple substitution.
U.S. vs U.K. Crochet Terminology: What’s the Difference?
This is, without question, the biggest trap for new crocheters. You are not going crazy. The same words mean different things in different countries.
Because crochet developed in both regions, two different "languages" stuck. Neither is better, but you must know which one your pattern is using.
Here is the simple translation key.
The Golden Rule: A U.S. pattern has a "single crochet" (sc). A U.K. pattern does not.
A U.K. "double crochet" (dc) is the SAME stitch as a U.S. "single crochet" (sc).
Here’s a quick comparison:
| U.S. Term | U.K. Term | What It Is |
| Slip Stitch (sl st) | Slip Stitch (ss) | (They are the same) |
| Single Crochet (sc) | Double Crochet (dc) | The short, basic stitch. |
| Half Double Crochet (hdc) | Half Treble (htr) | The medium-height stitch. |
| Double Crochet (dc) | Treble (tr) | The tall, common stitch. |
| Treble Crochet (tr) | Double Treble (dtr) | The very tall, lacy stitch. |
Patricia's Pro-Tip: I've been designing patterns for years, and this still catches me if I'm not paying attention. Before you start any project, scroll to the "Notes" section. 99% of good designers will explicitly state: "This pattern is written in U.S. terms" or "This pattern uses U.K. terminology." Checking this one sentence will save you from making a project that is twice as big (or half the size) as you expected.
Understanding Crochet Symbols (Chart Reading Explained)
Now for the other kind of pattern: the chart or diagram. As I said, this is a visual map. Instead of words, it uses a symbol for each stitch.
This can be incredibly helpful for two reasons. First, it's universal. A U.S. designer and a Japanese designer will use the same symbols, so you can make a pattern from a magazine you can't even read. Second, it shows you exactly where to place your hook, which can be clearer than words.
Here are the most common symbols:
The Oval (○)
This almost always represents a Chain (ch). A row of ovals is your foundation chain.
The 'X' or Plus Sign (+)
This typically represents a Single Crochet (sc).
The 'T'
This usually means a Half Double Crochet (hdc).
The 'T' with one cross-bar (like ✝)
This represents a Double Crochet (dc). The number of cross-bars usually indicates the number of "yarn overs" for the stitch.
A diagram can be read in two ways:
For Rows: You read it from the bottom up. Row 1 is read right-to-left (for a right-handed crocheter). Row 2 is read left-to-right. Row 3 is right-to-left, and so on.
For Rounds (like a granny square or hat): You start in the center and work in a spiral or joined rounds, moving counter-clockwise.
How to Read Stitch Repeats, Brackets & Parentheses
This is the "math" part, and it's where most beginners get lost. But it's just a way to write instructions more efficiently.
Let's break down the syntax.
Asterisks ( * )**
An asterisk marks the beginning of a sequence that you will repeat. The pattern will say "repeat from * to end" or "rep from * 5 times."
- Example:
Row 5: ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st; rep from * to last st, sc in last st. - Translation: Chain 1. Single crochet in the first stitch. Now, here is the repeat: [chain 1, skip a stitch, single crochet in the next stitch]. Keep doing that [ch 1, sk 1, sc] all the way across the row until you get to the last stitch, and then work a single crochet there.
Parentheses ( )
Parentheses are used to group stitches together. This is most often used in two ways.
Way 1: Grouping stitches into one.
- Example:
(sc, ch 2, sc) in next st. - Translation: Work all three of those stitches (a single crochet, two chains, and another single crochet) into the same single stitch from the row below. This is how you make a corner.
Way 2: At the end of a row.
- Example:
Row 1: 10 sc in magic ring. (10 sts) - Translation: This is your stitch count. It's not an instruction; it's a confirmation. It's the designer's way of saying, "Stop and count your stitches. You should have 10. If you don't, go back and fix it." This is your best friend!
Brackets [ ]
Brackets are used just like asterisks, to mark a repeating section.
- Example:
Row 2: ch 1, sc in 5 sts, [sc inc, sc in 2 sts] 3 times, sc in 4 sts. (23 sts) - Translation: Chain 1. Work a single crochet in the next 5 stitches. Now, do the part in the brackets three times: [one increase, then one single crochet in each of the next two stitches]. After you've done that 3 times, work a single crochet in the last 4 stitches. Your final count should be 23 stitches.
Sizing, Gauge & Tension: Why They Matter in Patterns
This is the section that most beginners skip, and it's the most critical part of making anything that needs to fit (like a hat, a sweater, or even gloves).
Tension
This is a word to describe how tightly or loosely you personally crochet. Everyone's tension is different.
Gauge
This is the measurement of your tension. A pattern will tell you the designer's gauge, like:
Gauge: 16 sc and 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)
Sizing
This is the final measurement of the finished item, which entirely depends on you matching the designer's gauge.
Patricia's Pro-Tip: I know, I know. Making a gauge swatch feels like a waste of time and yarn. You just want to start the project! But I have seen countless clients spend 40+ hours on a beautiful sweater, only to find it's two sizes too small, all because they didn't do a 20-minute swatch.
Please, swatch your work. Crochet a 5x5 inch square using the stitch and hook size the pattern calls for. Wash it and block it just as you will the final garment. Then, measure it. If you have more stitches in 4 inches, your tension is too tight, so go up a hook size (e.g., from 5mm to 5.5mm). If you have fewer stitches, you're too loose, so go down a hook size. This is the only way to guarantee your project will be the size the designer intended.
How to Follow Crochet Row-by-Row Instructions
Let's put it all together. When you look at a pattern, you'll start at the beginning.
Foundation Chain
The pattern will almost always start with Ch 21. or similar. You'll make a chain of that many stitches.
Row 1
This is your first "real" row. It will often say sc in 2nd ch from hook.... This means you skip the very first chain next to your hook (that's your "turning chain") and put your first stitch into the second one.
Turning Chains
At the end of the row, you have to get your yarn up to the height of the next row. This is the "turning chain." The pattern will say ch 1, turn or ch 3, turn.
- For sc: You usually
ch 1, turn. This chain does not count as a stitch. - For dc: You usually
ch 3, turn. In most patterns, this chain does count as the first double crochet of the new row. The pattern's "Notes" section will confirm this!
Working in Rounds
If you're making a hat or amigurumi, you'll work "in the round." The pattern will start with a Magic Ring (MR) or Ch 4, sl st to form ring. You then work your stitches into that center ring and work in a spiral or by joining each round with a slip stitch. The pattern will specify.
Special Instructions: Notes, Skill Level, and Yarn Requirements
The "boring" text at the top of a pattern is the most important. Always read it first!
Skill Level
This helps you know if you're in over your head. (We'll break this down next).
Yarn Requirements
This tells you two things: Yarn Weight and Yardage.
- Weight: This means the thickness (e.g., #4 Worsted, #3 DK). You must use the same weight.
- Yardage: This is the total length of yarn needed (e.g., 800 yds). This is more important than the number of skeins, as two different brands can have very different yardage per skein.
Hook Size
This is the hook the designer used to get gauge. You may need to use a different size to match their gauge.
Notes Section
This is where the designer puts any "special stitch" definitions (like a "bobble stitch" or "post stitch") and clarifies things like "turning chain counts as first stitch."
How to Read Crochet Diagrams (With Visual Examples)
This section was titled "How to Read Crochet Symbols" earlier, but let's put it into practice. Imagine you see a diagram for a classic granny square.
Here's how you'd read it, starting from the center and moving out:
Center: You would see a small circle made of 4 or 5 ovals (chains), joined with a dot (slip stitch). That's your starting ring.
Round 1: You'd see a small ch 3 (three ovals stacked) coming off that ring. This is your turning chain that counts as your first dc. Then, in the center ring, you'd see two T-with-a-bar symbols (two more dc). Then you'd see two ovals (a ch-2 space). Then a group of three T-with-a-bar symbols (a 3-dc cluster). You'd follow this "map" all the way around.
Round 2: You'd see the "map" show you how to slip stitch into the first ch-2 corner space, and then begin the next round from there, building on the row below.
You don't have to guess. The visual chart shows you where the stitches live in relation to each other.
Decoding Pattern Difficulty Levels
Most patterns use a standard system. Here's what they generally mean:
Level 1: Beginner
Uses basic stitches (sc, hdc, dc), works in simple rows or rounds (like a scarf or washcloth), and has minimal shaping.
Level 2: Easy
Still uses basic stitches but introduces simple stitch combinations, some shaping (like a simple hat), or easy color changes.
Level 3: Intermediate
This is where you'll find more complex stitches (like cables, post stitches, or lace), more advanced shaping (like a sweater), and techniques like colorwork.
Level 4: Complex / Advanced
Uses very intricate stitch patterns, requires precise tension, and has complex construction (like a fitted, lacy garment).
Start at Level 1. Once you've made a few projects successfully, move up to Level 2.
Practice Section: Read Your First Simple Crochet Pattern
Let's read a real pattern for a simple, modern-looking washcloth.
Simple Textured Washcloth
- Skill Level: Beginner
- Notes: This pattern uses U.S. terms. The
ch 1turning chain does not count as a stitch. - Materials: 1 skein #4 Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn, 5.0mm (H) hook, Scissors
- Gauge: 16 sts and 18 rows = 4 inches in the pattern (not critical for this project)
- Final Size: Approx. 9" x 9"
Abbreviations
- ch: chain
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sc: single crochet
- sl st: slip stitch
Pattern
Foundation: Ch 35.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook. sc in each ch across. (34 sts)
Row 2: ch 1, turn. sc in first st. [sl st in next st, sc in next st] 16 times. sl st in last st. (34 sts)
Row 3: ch 1, turn. sc in each st across. (34 sts)
Row 4-31: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, ending with a Row 3 repeat.
Do not fasten off.
Border
Rnd 1: ch 1. Work 1 sc in the end of each row down the side. (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner. Work 1 sc in each st of the foundation chain. (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner. Work 1 sc in the end of each row up the other side. (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner. Work 1 sc in each st across the top. (sc, ch 1, sl st) in the first sc to join.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Translation: You start with 35 chains. You single crochet for the first row. Then you alternate a row of (sl st, sc) with a row of all sc. This creates a lovely, simple texture. Finally, you add a clean border by working around the entire piece. See? You can read that!
Troubleshooting: What to Do When a Pattern Doesn’t Make Sense
Even as an expert, I get stuck. When you do, run through this checklist.
Check the Terms
Is the pattern U.S. or U.K.? This is the #1 problem. If the pattern calls for a dc and it looks tiny, you're probably reading a U.K. pattern with U.S. expectations.
Count Your Stitches
Are you actually ending the row with the stitch count in the (## sts)? If your count is off, you missed an increase, decrease, or a stitch at the end of the row.
Read the Notes (Again)
Did you miss a "Special Stitch" definition? Is the ch 3 counting as a stitch when you thought it didn't?
Google It
Google the pattern name. You will often find a blog post, a video tutorial, or a Ravelry project page where other people have discussed this exact problem.
Contact the Designer
Most independent designers list their email or social media. If you're truly stuck, send a polite, specific email. ("I'm stuck on Row 15 of your 'Winter Scarf' pattern. My stitch count is 32 but it says it should be 34.") We're usually happy to help!
Where to Find Beginner-Friendly Crochet Patterns
You're ready to start. But where do you find patterns you can trust?
Ravelry
This is the biggest database of crochet and knitting patterns on the internet. You can filter patterns by "Difficulty," "Skill Level," "Yarn Weight," and so much more. It's my #1 resource.
Etsy
This is the best place to find patterns from independent designers and support small businesses. You can often find beginner-friendly "pattern bundles" for a great price.
Crochet Blogs and Yarn Company Websites
Many professional crochet bloggers (like myself!) and major yarn companies (like Lion Brand or WeCrochet) offer a huge selection of free, high-quality patterns.
You've got this. That "secret code" is now just a recipe, and you're the chef. You have the skills to unlock a whole new world of creativity, one stitch at a time.
What's the first project you're itching to make now that you know how to read a pattern? I'd love to hear all about it in the comments below.
