Watching a ball of yarn transform into actual fabric never really gets old. If you have already nailed the basics—like the starting chain and the single crochet—you are ready to level up. The next logical step in your journey is the double crochet, a stitch that opens up a whole new world of speed and texture.
For many new crocheters, this is the first "tall" stitch they learn, and it can feel intimidating. It requires more steps, more yarn-overs, and it seems to create fabric so fast that any mistakes feel magnified. You might be staring at your hook, then at a pattern, and feeling a gap between the two.
This is where we change that.
This guide isn't just another list of technical steps. I’m here to walk you through the double crochet (or "dc") as an experienced crocheter, covering not just the how but the why. We’ll explore why this stitch is a beginner's best friend, how to get the feel of it right, and, most importantly, how to diagnose and fix the common wobbles—those uneven edges and mystery gaps—that frustrate so many.
By the end of this, the double crochet won't just be a stitch you know. It will be a stitch you understand, control, and can use to unlock a whole new world of beautiful projects.
Understanding the Double Crochet Stitch
Before we pick up a hook, let’s get acquainted with our new friend. The double crochet stitch is a cornerstone of crochet, one of the fundamental techniques you'll use for the rest of your creative journey.
What Is the Double Crochet Stitch
In the family of crochet stitches, the double crochet is a fan favorite for a reason. It's approximately twice the height of a single crochet stitch, which means it builds fabric incredibly quickly. It’s created by "yarning over" (wrapping the yarn around your hook) before inserting the hook into your work, then pulling up a loop and working those loops off the hook in pairs.
This process creates a stitch that is more open, has more drape, and is significantly taller than its shorter siblings.
One crucial point of clarification: I am using US (United States) crochet terminology throughout this article. This is the standard in many patterns, but it's essential to know the difference.
Patricia's Pro-Tip: The single most common point of confusion for international crocheters is the US/UK term difference. A US "double crochet" (dc) is the exact same stitch as a UK "treble crochet" (tr). A US "single crochet" (sc) is a UK "double crochet" (dc). Always, always check the "pattern notes" of any design you’re using to see which terminology the designer has used. It will save you a world of frustration.
Why the Double Crochet Is Ideal for Beginners
I absolutely love recommending the double crochet to beginners, right after they've gotten comfortable with a chain. While it has a couple more steps than a single crochet, it has a massive advantage: speed.
When you’re first starting, the motivation to keep going comes from seeing results. A single crochet swatch can take ages to grow, which can feel discouraging. A double crochet swatch, by contrast, grows in a flash. Seeing a few inches of fabric appear after just 15 or 20 minutes is an incredible confidence booster.
Furthermore, the "openness" of the stitch can actually be a benefit. The stitches are larger and more defined, making it much, much easier for you to "read your work"—to see the individual stitches, identify the top "V" where your hook needs to go, and count your rows. With single crochet, stitches can be tight and hard to see. The double crochet stitch is like a clear, easy-to-read map.
When to Use Double Crochet in Projects
So, when would you reach for this stitch? The double crochet's height and structure create a fabric with specific, wonderful qualities.
Because it's a taller stitch, the resulting fabric is not as dense or stiff as a single crochet fabric. This creates drape. This is the quality that allows a fabric to hang and flow beautifully. This makes the double crochet stitch the absolute perfect choice for projects like:
- Afghans and Blankets: You can create a full-sized blanket in a fraction of the time, and the resulting fabric will be soft, warm, and cuddly, not stiff like a board.
- Scarves and Shawls: The drape is essential here. You want a scarf that wraps comfortably around your neck, and a shawl that flows over your shoulders.
- Garments: Many sweaters, cardigans, and tops use double crochet for the main body panels specifically because it creates a wearable fabric that moves with you.
- Market Bags: The natural "gaps" between the stitches (part of its open-weave nature) give the fabric a built-in stretch, perfect for a bag that needs to expand.
You would not use a standard double crochet for things requiring a very dense, stiff fabric, like the bottom of a structured basket or an amigurumi toy (which needs to hold stuffing without any gaps). For everything else, it’s a fast, beautiful, and versatile workhorse.
Materials and Preparation
Like any good craft, starting with the right tools makes the entire process more enjoyable. You don't need much, but choosing wisely will set you up for success.
Best Yarn Types for Learning Double Crochet
My strong recommendation for your first practice swatches is a worsted-weight (Category 4) yarn. This is the most common, standard yarn weight.
But more importantly, choose a yarn with these three qualities:
- Smooth: Avoid any novelty yarns. Eyelash yarn, bouclé, chenille, or anything overly "fluffy" or "bumpy" is a nightmare for a beginner. You need to be able to see your stitches clearly. A simple, plied acrylic or wool is perfect.
- Light-Colored: Stay away from black, dark navy, or chocolate brown. It is nearly impossible to see the loops on your hook or the "V"s in your stitches when the yarn is dark. A cream, beige, light blue, or pastel yellow is ideal.
- Non-Splitting: Some cheaper yarns are "splitty," meaning the hook constantly gets caught between the different plies (strands) of the yarn. This is incredibly frustrating. A smooth, tightly-plied yarn, like most standard acrylics (think Red Heart Super Saver or Bernat Premium), is a reliable, inexpensive choice for practicing.
A 100% acrylic or a wool/acrylic blend is a great starting point. Save the delicate merino or alpaca for when you’re more confident.
Choosing the Right Hook Size
The yarn's paper label will almost always tell you the recommended hook size. For a worsted-weight yarn, this is typically a 5.0mm (H-8) or 5.5mm (I-9) hook.
This recommendation is a starting point. In fact, I often advise my students to go up a size from the recommendation. If the label says 5.5mm, try a 6.0mm (J-10).
Why? Because the single tightest (pun intended) problem beginners have is tension. New crocheters tend to make their stitches very, very tight. This makes it a physical battle to insert the hook on the next row. Using a slightly larger hook forces your loops to be a bit looser and more open, making the whole process easier and more relaxed.
How to Hold Your Yarn and Hook for Better Control
This is a step most guides skip, but it’s the foundation of your tension. There are two primary ways to hold your crochet hook:
- Pencil Grip: Holding the hook just as you would a pencil, with your thumb and index finger pinching the thumb rest and the hook resting on your middle finger.
- Knife Grip: Holding the hook as you would a knife (when spreading butter, not chopping!), with your palm over the hook and your index finger guiding the top.
Which one is correct? Both.
I’m a knife-grip crocheter myself, but I have friends who are virtuosos with a pencil grip. Try both and see which one feels more natural and gives you better control. The "right" way is the one that allows you to crochet for hours without pain.
More important is your yarn hand (usually your non-dominant hand). This hand is your tension-control center. You need to "feed" the yarn to the hook. Most people do this by weaving the yarn over their index finger, and perhaps between their pinky and ring finger, to create a gentle, consistent drag. Letting the yarn just flop around will lead to inconsistent, lumpy stitches. Play with winding the yarn through your fingers until you find a way to make it flow smoothly, but not too loosely.
How to Double Crochet Step by Step
Alright, let's build this stitch. Grab your light-colored, worsted-weight yarn and your 5.5mm or 6.0mm hook. We'll make a small practice swatch.
Step 1: Create a Slip Knot
This is the anchor for your entire project. Make a loop with your yarn, then pull another loop through it (this is the "slip" part). Place this new loop on your hook and pull the yarn tail gently to tighten it. It should be snug, but not strangling the hook—it needs to slide freely.
Step 2: Make a Foundation Chain
This is the base row. To practice, let's chain 17. To make a chain, simply yarn over (wrap yarn over your hook from back to front) and pull that yarn through the loop that's already on your hook. That's one chain. Repeat this 16 more times. You'll have a V-shaped chain that looks like a braid.
Step 3: Yarn Over (YO) and Insert the Hook
This is where the double crochet begins. First, yarn over (YO). Now, we need to find where to put our hook. For the very first dc stitch of a project, you will work into the 4th chain from the hook. (The loop on your hook never counts).
Count back four "V"s from your hook: 1, 2, 3, 4. Insert your hook into the center of that 4th chain. I recommend going under the "top loop" of the V.
Step 4: The Three Pull-Throughs
This is the core of the stitch, and it happens in three distinct motions.
- First Pull-Through: Yarn over. Pull that yarn back through the chain stitch (but not through the other loops on your hook). You will now have three loops on your hook. This is your first checkpoint.
- Second Pull-Through: Yarn over. Pull this new loop of yarn through the first two loops on your hook. You will now have two loops left on your hook.
- Third Pull-Through: Yarn over one last time. Pull this loop through the remaining two loops on your hook.
You will have one loop left on your hook. That's it. You have successfully created one double crochet stitch.
Step 5: How to Complete Your First Row of Double Crochet
Now, you just repeat that action. For the next stitch:
- Yarn over.
- Insert your hook into the very next chain stitch of your foundation.
- Yarn over, pull up a loop. (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, pull through two loops. (2 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, pull through the last two loops. (1 loop on hook).
Continue doing this in every single chain stitch, all the way to the end. When you get to your last chain (the one next to your slip knot), make your last double crochet.
Now, stop and count. This is critical. Those first 3 chains we skipped? They count as our very first double crochet stitch. Then you worked one dc into each of the remaining 14 chains. This means you should have a total of 15 stitches in your row (the 3-chain "turn" + 14 "real" dc stitches).
Step 6: How to Turn Your Work and Continue Rows
You’ve reached the end of the row. To go back, you first need to build up the "height" for the new row.
- Chain 3: With the single loop on your hook, simply chain 3 (YO, pull through; YO, pull through; YO, pull through).
- Turn Your Work: Physically flip your entire piece of crochet over, like turning the page in a book. You’ll now be looking at the "back" of the stitches you just made, ready to work from right to left (or left to right, for lefties) again.
This "chain-3" you just made will act as the first double crochet stitch of this new row. This is the part that confuses everyone, so pay close attention:
Because that chain-3 is your first stitch, you do not work into the very first stitch at the base of your chain. You will skip that stitch. Your first "real" double crochet will go into the second stitch of the row (the top of the second-to-last dc you made in the previous row).
Find that "V" at the top of the next stitch, insert your hook under both loops of the V, and make your double crochet as before (YO, insert, YO-pull-up, YO-pull-2, YO-pull-2).
Continue making one dc in the top of every stitch across. When you get to the end, you have to make your last stitch in the top of that turning chain-3 from the row below. This is why we count it! It's a real stitch. This is the secret to straight edges, which we'll cover in Troubleshooting.
Beginner-Friendly Double Crochet Projects
Now that you have the motion down, the best way to get better is to make something! These projects are perfect for practicing your new skill.
Easy Double Crochet Scarf
This is the ultimate beginner project. Why? It's just a rectangle. You make a foundation chain (as wide as you want your scarf), and then you just... go. You do row after row of double crochet, practicing your turns and your tension, until it's as long as you want it. It's meditative, repetitive, and the perfect way to build muscle memory.
Simple Double Crochet Blanket
A blanket is just a very, very big scarf. The same principle applies. You can make a small "lapghan" or baby blanket. The speed of the double crochet stitch is your best friend here. If you want it to go even faster, try this project with a bulky (Category 5) or super bulky (Category 6) yarn and a large hook (like a 10mm or 12mm). You'll have a blanket in an afternoon.
Quick Double Crochet Coasters
This is the project for instant gratification. You'll chain about 17 (like our swatch), and work about 8 or 9 rows, until you have a small square. Make four of these, and you have a set of coasters. This is my favorite "practice" project because it's so small that you can really focus on making your edges perfect and your stitches even. And if it comes out a little wonky? It's just a coaster. No big deal.
Double Crochet Dishcloth for Beginners
This is the most functional practice you can get. The only rule: you must use 100% cotton yarn.
Patricia's Pro-Tip: I've seen clients and students make dishcloths or potholders out of acrylic yarn, and it’s a dangerous mistake. Acrylic yarn is, essentially, plastic. It will melt when it touches a hot pot. Cotton, on the other hand, is heat-resistant and absorbent, making it the perfect (and only) choice for kitchen items. Be warned: cotton has no stretch and can feel a bit "stiff" to work with at first, but it's fantastic for practicing tension.
Troubleshooting and Improvement
Okay, let's be honest. Your first swatch probably looks a little... unique. Maybe it's shaped more like a trapezoid than a rectangle. Maybe it has holes you didn't plan for. This is normal. This is expected. Let's fix it.
How to Fix Gaps or Loose Stitches
This is 99% a tension problem. Inconsistent tension comes from the "golden loop"—the loop of yarn that is on your hook at any given time. If that loop is loose and floppy before you yarn over, your whole stitch will be loose and floppy. If it's strangling the hook, your stitch will be tight.
The fix is to focus on that one loop. After you complete a stitch, give your yarn tail a gentle tug to snug that loop up to the hook's shaft (not the tapered throat) before you begin the next stitch. Consistency in that one loop is the key to even fabric.
Why Your Edges Look Uneven and How to Fix Them
This is the number one, most-asked question about the double crochet. The edges are either fanning out (increasing) or curving in (decreasing).
The problem is almost always a misunderstanding of the turning chain.
If your project is getting wider (fanning out): You are accidentally adding a stitch in every row. This happens when you do the "chain 3, turn" and then you make your first dc in the first stitch at the base of the chain, IN ADDITION to the chain-3. You're putting two stitches where one should be. The Fix: Remember, the chain-3 is your first stitch. You MUST skip the stitch at its base.
If your project is getting narrower (curving in): You are accidentally losing a stitch in every row. This happens for one of two reasons.
- You are skipping the second stitch as well as the first.
You are forgetting to put your last stitch into the top of the turning chain-3 from the row below. That chain-3 is a stitch, and it needs to be worked into. It can be tricky to find, so you have to look for it.
Tips for Maintaining Consistent Tension
Tension is your crochet "handwriting." It will become consistent with practice. My best tip is to focus on your yarn hand (the one not holding the hook). Find a way to wrap the yarn through your fingers that creates a smooth, even drag. I weave my yarn over my index finger, under my middle, and over my ring finger. This "S" shape gives me perfect control. Find your way and then—this is the important part—do it the same way every time. Consistency in your hand-wrap is consistency in your stitches.
How to Count Double Crochet Stitches Correctly
Do not trust your eyes, not at first. Trust stitch markers.
This is the best advice I can give you. When you "chain 3, turn," get a locking stitch marker (a small plastic clip) and place it directly into the top chain of that chain-3. Now you know exactly where your first stitch is.
Crochet across your row. When you make your very last dc stitch, put another stitch marker in the top "V" of that stitch.
On the next row, you'll work until you hit the marker from the row below. You'll know exactly where your last stitch goes (in the V with the marker), and you'll know exactly where your first stitch is (the chain-3 with its own marker). This practice removes all guesswork and is the single fastest way to learn how to build a perfect rectangle.
Care and Finishing
You've finished your project, and you have a stringy end. You're not done! Finishing is what separates a "homemade" project from a "handmade" one.
How to Weave in Ends
Do not just tie a knot and cut the yarn. It will unravel. You must weave the end in.
Thread your yarn tail onto a tapestry needle (a blunt-tipped sewing needle with a large eye). Look at the back of your work, and run the needle under the loops of the stitches for about two inches. Then, go back in the opposite direction, stitching under a different set of loops. For a truly secure end, do this a third time, changing direction again. Now, and only now, can you safely snip the yarn tail flush with your work.
How to Block Double Crochet Projects for a Neat Finish
Blocking is the "magic" finishing touch. It's using moisture and/or steam to relax the fibers and set them into their final, perfect shape. It evens out tension, flattens curling edges, and makes your stitches "bloom."
For acrylic yarn (which I recommended), you will steam block. Pin your finished piece to a foam mat or ironing board, stretching it gently into a perfect square or rectangle.
Then, using a steam iron, hover the iron over the fabric (about an inch above it) and blast it with steam. NEVER touch the hot iron plate directly to acrylic yarn. It will melt and "kill" the fiber. The steam and heat are enough. Let it cool and dry completely before unpinning, and it will hold that shape.
For cotton or wool, you can "wet block" by soaking the item, gently squeezing out water, pinning it, and letting it air dry.
How to Wash and Store Your Crochet Pieces
Always read the yarn label! Most acrylics and cottons are machine washable. I recommend washing them in a mesh garment bag on a gentle cycle to prevent snagging. Tumble dry on low heat, or, even better, lay the item flat on a towel to air dry.
Store your beautiful crochet pieces folded, not hanging. Hanging a crocheted sweater or blanket can cause the stitches to stretch and warp over time due-to gravity.
You’ve done it. You’ve navigated the ins and outs of the double crochet, from the first yarn-over to the final weave. This stitch is a gateway. It's the key to building fast, beautiful, and functional projects. The initial frustrations—the uneven edges, the tension woes—are just the learning curve. With the knowledge you have now and a bit of practice, you’ll be creating beautiful, flowing fabrics in no time.
