If there is one stitch that truly unlocks the speed and rhythm of crochet, it is the double crochet. You have likely mastered the single crochet—that tight, meticulous stitch that forms the backbone of amigurumi—but you might be feeling that your blankets or scarves are growing painfully slowly. This is where the "DC" changes the game. It is taller, airier, and significantly faster to work up than its shorter cousin.
In this guide, we are going to move beyond the basics. I am not just going to tell you where to put your hook; I want to help you understand the mechanics of the stitch so your edges stay straight, your fabric remains soft, and your hands fly. We will cover everything from the initial yarn-over to the common tension pitfalls that leave beginners frustrated.
What is a Double Crochet?
When we talk about the "height" of crochet stitches, we usually use the single crochet as our unit of measurement. If a single crochet is a small brick, the double crochet is a cinder block—it stands roughly twice as tall. This height difference is what gives double crochet fabric its signature drape. While single crochet creates a dense, stiff fabric perfect for stuffed toys that need to hold stuffing, double crochet creates a flexible, soft textile that wraps beautifully around the body.
The structural difference lies in the "yarn over" maneuver. By wrapping the yarn around your hook before you even enter the stitch, you are adding extra length to the leg of the stitch. This creates small gaps or "windows" in the fabric. These windows are excellent for breathability in summer garments or lightweight throws, but they are the exact reason we rarely use this stitch for the main body of amigurumi—the stuffing would show right through.
Patricia's Pro-Tip: I’ve seen many clients make the mistake of pulling their yarn overs too tight, thinking it will make the stitch neater. The simple fix is to let the hook do the work. When you yarn over, ensure the yarn slides onto the widest part of the hook’s shaft, not just the narrow throat. This ensures every loop is the correct size and prevents your fabric from skewing diagonally.
Understanding the Abbreviation: How to DC
If you open a modern pattern, you will almost exclusively see the abbreviation "DC." In the world of United States crochet terminology, this stands strictly for Double Crochet. It is vital to check the origin of your pattern before you begin, because this is where one of the most common crafting disasters occurs.
In UK (United Kingdom) or Australian terms, the exact same stitch we are learning today is called a "Treble Crochet" (TR), and what they call a "Double Crochet" is actually our Single Crochet. I once spent three days working on a vintage British sweater pattern using US Double Crochets when I should have been using Single Crochets. The result was a garment that was twice as big as it should have been and completely see-through. Always verify the terminology source at the start of the pattern PDF or book.
The "DC" is the bread and butter of the crochet world. It is the primary component of the classic Granny Square, the V-stitch, and the shell stitch. Once you understand the logic of the DC abbreviation, you unlock thousands of patterns that rely on this specific height.
Step-by-Step Tutorial: Performing the Double Crochet
Let us break this down into the specific movements. We will assume you have a foundation chain ready. If you are starting a new row, you typically need to skip the first three chains from the hook, which act as your first "turning chain" or false stitch.
The Setup: The Yarn Over The movement begins before you touch the fabric. Wrap the yarn over your hook from back to front. You should now have two loops on your hook: the original working loop and the new yarn over. Hold this new loop steady with your index finger so it doesn't slide off as you aim for the stitch. This initial wrap is what differentiates the DC from the SC.
Insertion and Retrieval Insert your hook into the designated stitch or chain. Yarn over again and pull that loop back through the stitch. Pause here. You should now see three distinct loops on your hook. This is your checkpoint. If you only see two, you forgot the initial yarn over. If you see four, you might have accidentally caught an extra strand.
The First Pull-Through Yarn over your hook again. detailed patterns often rush this part, but this is where tension is dictated. Pull this new yarn through only the first two loops on your hook. You are essentially resolving the bottom half of the stitch. You should now have two loops remaining on the hook.
The Final Resolution Yarn over one final time. Pull this yarn through the remaining two loops on your hook. You should be left with a single loop, and you will see a tall, completed post standing below it. You have just completed one double crochet.
Patricia's Pro-Tip: I’ve seen many clients struggle with "gappy" edges where they turn their work. The simple fix is to look at your turning chain. Standard instructions say to chain 3 to start a DC row, but for many crocheters, a chain 3 is looser than their actual stitches, leaving a hole. Try chaining 2 instead—it often matches the height of the double crochet much better and eliminates that unsightly gap at the start of the row.
Common Mistakes When Learning to DC
The most frequent issue beginners face with double crochet is the "hourglass" effect. This happens when your tension varies wildly between the top and bottom of the stitch. Because the stitch is taller, there is more room for error. If you pull your loops too tall during the "Insertion and Retrieval" phase, your stitch will look leggy and loose. If you strangle the yarn during the "Final Resolution," the top of the row will pinch inward. Aim for a fluid, rhythmic motion where the hook slides easily, rather than jerking the yarn through.
Another common frustration is the shrinking row count. Because the double crochet requires a turning chain (usually 3 chains) at the start of the row, beginners often forget that this turning chain counts as a stitch. When you reach the end of the next row, you must work your final stitch into the top of that turning chain from the previous row. If you skip it, your blanket will slowly turn into a triangle.
Splitting the yarn is also more common with DC than with shorter stitches. Because you are pulling through two loops at a time multiple times, the hook has more opportunities to snag a single ply of yarn. This usually happens if you are using a hook that is too sharp or pointed for the yarn type. If you find yourself constantly splitting the ply, switch to a hook with a more rounded head or "inline" throat.
Easy Patterns That Use Double Crochet
Once you have the rhythm down, you don't need complex charts to make something beautiful. The double crochet is versatile enough to stand on its own.
The Classic Granny Square This is the quintessential double crochet project. It is built almost entirely of "shells" or "clusters" of three double crochets worked into the same space. Because you are working into open spaces rather than tight stitch heads, it is incredibly forgiving for beginners. You can make a single giant square for a baby blanket, or join many small ones for a retro cardigan.
The V-Stitch Scarf This pattern relies on the height of the DC to create a lacy texture. You work a DC, chain 1, and another DC all into the same stitch, then skip a stitch. This forces the two double crochets to lean away from each other, forming a "V." It works up about 50% faster than a standard solid row of stitches because of the chain spaces, making it perfect for last-minute gifts.
The Ripple or Chevron Blanket The famous zig-zag blanket pattern relies on the height of double crochets to create dramatic peaks and valleys. By grouping double crochets together (increases) and skipping stitches (decreases), you create a wave effect. The height of the DC makes these waves prominent and distinct. If you tried this with single crochet, the waves would be subtle and the blanket would take months to finish; with DC, you can finish a throw in a couple of weekends.
Frequently Asked Questions About Double Crochet
Is double crochet the same as half double crochet? No, they are distinct stitches. The half double crochet (HDC) falls right between the single and double in height. For an HDC, you yarn over and insert the hook, but you pull through all three loops at once, rather than doing it in two stages like the double crochet. The HDC is denser, while the DC is airier.
Why does my double crochet fabric curl? Double crochet fabric is generally flatter than single crochet, but curling can still happen if your foundation chain is too tight. If the bottom of your work is bowing like a smile, try using a hook one size larger just for the foundation chain, then switch back to your regular hook for the first row of double crochets.
Can I use double crochet for amigurumi? Technically yes, but it is not recommended for the body of the toy. The gaps between the tall posts of double crochet are wide enough for polyfill stuffing to poke through, which looks messy and can be a choking hazard for babies. However, DC is excellent for amigurumi accessories, like a doll's skirt or a loose scarf for a bear.
What is the US vs UK terminology difference? In the US, the stitch is a Double Crochet (DC). In the UK/Australia, the exact same stitch is called a Treble Crochet (TR). Conversely, a US Single Crochet is a UK Double Crochet. Always check the author's location or the pattern's glossary before starting.
How do I count double crochet rows? Because the stitches are tall, they are easy to count visually. Look for the vertical posts. Each post represents one stitch. To count rows, you can often count the ridges. If you are unsure, measuring is often more accurate than counting rows for garments—simply measure the length in inches or centimeters as specified by the pattern.
Moving Forward with Your Stitch Library
Mastering the double crochet is like graduating from walking to running. It opens up the world of garment making, rapid blanket construction, and intricate lace patterns. You now have the mechanics to ensure your stitches are even, your edges are straight, and your terminology is accurate. Grab a skein of light-colored yarn—it is easier to see your stitches—and practice a few rows. Once your tension evens out, you will find a rhythm that is both relaxing and incredibly productive.
